You Invested in the Right Countertop. Here's How to Keep It.

Warm water and a microfiber cloth handle the vast majority of daily messes. For cooking residue or anything with grease, a small amount of mild dish soap works fine. Rinse thoroughly after, because soap buildup dulls the finish over time. Dry with a clean cloth when you’re done.

Avoid: Windex, bleach, vinegar, lemon juice, ammonia-based cleaners, and abrasive sponges. All of these degrade the sealant and can etch or dull the surface with repeated use.

Granite needs to be sealed because it is porous. Your countertops are sealed before they leave our facility, but that seal doesn’t last forever.

The water test: Drop a few beads of water on the surface and wait five minutes. If the water beads up and sits on top, your seal is holding. If it soaks in and darkens the stone, it’s time to reseal.

Most granite countertops need resealing once a year, though some denser stones can go longer. Use a non-toxic sealer rated for food-preparation surfaces. Follow the product instructions. Most require the surface to be clean and dry, and some need a cure period before you can use the counter or get it wet again.

Stains happen. Here’s how to deal with them:

For fresh stains: Blot immediately. Don’t wipe, which spreads the stain. Follow with warm soapy water and a soft cloth.

For set stains: Make a paste of baking soda and water until it’s the consistency of toothpaste. Spread it over the stained area, cover with plastic wrap, and tape down the edges. Let it sit overnight. Remove the plastic wrap and wipe away the paste with warm water. Repeat if needed. Stubborn stains may take two or three rounds.

What not to use: Bar Keepers Friend is sometimes recommended, but use it sparingly and check your specific brand’s care guide first. Never use anything abrasive or acidic as a stain treatment.

Granite handles heat better than most countertop materials, but “heat resistant” isn’t the same as “heat proof.” Grit and debris trapped between a hot pan and the stone surface can scratch even granite. Use trivets. It’s a good habit with any countertop.

A damp cloth handles daily cleaning. For stickier messes, add a small amount of mild dish soap. Rinse well and dry. Quartz can show water spots in hard water areas.

Avoid: Harsh chemicals at either end of the pH scale. Anything highly acidic, like vinegar or citrus-based cleaners, or highly alkaline will break down the surface over time. Avoid abrasive pads. Windex and bleach are no-go as regular cleaners.

Quartz is highly stain resistant. When something does stick:

For dried or stuck-on spills: A plastic putty knife to gently lift the residue, followed by a non-abrasive surface cleaner or glass cleaner. Let it sit for a minute before wiping.

For tough stains: The baking soda and water paste method works here too. Apply, cover with plastic wrap, let it sit overnight, rinse clean.

What not to use: Avoid solvents like acetone, paint stripper, or nail polish remover. They can discolor or damage the resin in the surface.

Quartz is highly stain resistant. When something does stick:

For Dried or Stuck-on Spills: A plastic putty knife to gently lift the residue, followed by a non-abrasive surface cleaner or glass cleaner. Let it sit for a minute before wiping.

For Tough Stains: The baking soda and water paste method works here too. Apply, cover with plastic wrap, let it sit overnight, rinse clean.

⚠️ What NOT to Use: Avoid solvents like acetone, paint stripper, or nail polish remover. They can discolor or damage the resin in the surface.

This is quartz’s biggest limitation. The resin binders are heat-sensitive.

A pan straight from a 400-degree oven can discolor or crack the surface, and that damage typically can’t be repaired.

Always use trivets or hot pads under anything that came off a burner or out of an oven. This includes slow cookers, griddles, and electric skillets.

Mild dish soap and warm water. Spray bottle, soft cloth, wipe, dry. That handles 95% of daily kitchen messes. Quartzite is durable and a bit more forgiving than marble for everyday use. Always dry the surface after cleaning, because mineral deposits from hard water can build up on any stone.

Avoid: Abrasive pads, steel wool, vinegar, ammonia-based cleaners, and anything citrus-based. These degrade the sealer and can dull the surface.

Quartzite is natural stone, which means it has pores, which means it needs to be sealed. Like granite, your quartzite is sealed before installation, but that barrier wears down over time.

Reseal once or twice a year depending on how heavily the surface is used. Use the water test: a few drops on the surface, wait 15 to 20 minutes. If the water beads up, the seal is holding. If it soaks in and leaves a dark spot, it’s time.

Use a pH-neutral stone sealer. Follow the product’s instructions.

Oil-based stains: Baking soda mixed with acetone to form a paste about the consistency of peanut butter. Spread it over the stain, cover with plastic wrap, tape the edges, and leave for 24 to 48 hours. The poultice draws the oil out as it dries. Scrape off gently and rinse.

Water-based stains (coffee, wine): Same approach, but use baking soda mixed with water instead of acetone. May take two or three applications for stubborn stains.

Mineral deposits (white cloudy marks): These show up from standing water. A pH-neutral stone cleaner and a soft cloth usually handles them.

Quartzite handles heat very well. It’s one of its strong suits compared to engineered quartz. Still a good habit to use trivets, but a hot pan isn’t going to damage quartzite the way it can quartz.

Mild dish soap and warm water. Nothing more complicated. One to three drops of dish soap in a spray bottle of warm water. Soft cloth or sponge, never anything abrasive. Rinse thoroughly and dry.

Avoid: Vinegar, Windex, bleach, ammonia, lemon juice, any commercial bathroom cleaner. A single use of acidic cleaners can etch marble, permanently dulling the surface and leaving a mark that won’t buff out. This is not a dramatic warning. It’s a real limitation of the stone. Treat it accordingly.

These are not the same thing, and knowing the difference helps.

Etching is a chemical reaction. Acid eats into the calcium carbonate in marble and leaves a dull, lighter mark. Common causes: lemon juice, vinegar, wine, tomato sauce, citrus-based cleaners. Etching isn’t a stain. The surface is physically altered. Mild etching can sometimes be buffed out with marble polish. Deep etching needs professional refinishing.

Staining is a substance that penetrates the porous stone and leaves a color mark. Common causes: oil, coffee, red wine, ink. Stains respond to the poultice method (see below). Etching does not.

For most stains: Baking soda and water paste, applied generously over the stain. Cover with plastic wrap, tape the edges, and let it sit for 24 hours. Wipe away with warm water. For particularly stubborn stains, hydrogen peroxide mixed with a few drops of ammonia can help. Use sparingly and rinse thoroughly.

For paint or grout residue: Use a plastic or dull-edged razor scraper. Never a metal knife or blade at an angle, as that can scratch the surface.

When in doubt: Call us before you try something you’re not sure about. We’d rather spend five minutes on the phone with you than see a marble top damaged by a well-intentioned cleaning attempt.

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If you have marble shower walls or bathroom counters, rinse the tile down with clean water after each shower. Shampoos, conditioners, and body washes contain ingredients that cloud and discolor marble over time.

Dry with a soft towel after rinsing. If soap scum develops, use a pH-neutral cleaner specifically rated for marble. Nothing else.

Warm water and a mild dish soap. Soft cloth or non-abrasive sponge. Dry after cleaning. For deeper residue, a non-abrasive cleaner like Soft Scrub (bleach-free formula) is appropriate. Do not use abrasive pads. They leave fine scratches that accumulate and dull the finish.

Avoid: Acetone and paint stripper. These can strip the color from the surface. Avoid harsh drain cleaners if they might contact the countertop. For in-depth cleaning, a solution of three parts mild dish soap to one part rubbing alcohol in warm water works well.

⚠️ Do NOT seal solid surface. Like quartz, it is non-porous. Sealers are not needed and can interfere with the surface.

This is one of solid surface’s real advantages over stone.

Light scratches can often be buffed out with a fine-grit sandpaper (1500 grit or higher) using a circular motion, followed by a white Scotch-Brite pad to restore the matte finish.

Deeper damage is a job for a professional.

If you have Corian, Wilsonart, or another brand, check that brand’s specific care guide (linked below) for the recommended repair method. Some brands have slightly different processes.

Solid surface has a lower heat tolerance than natural stone or quartz.

Do NOT place hot pots, pans, or appliances directly on the surface. The resin can discolor, warp, or crack. Always use trivets and hot pads.